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July 2019
01 July 2019
Waking to another day of clear skies and warmth we made a few phone calls we decided to head back North, this time to Kununurra. We did think about Broome, but knowing that the school holidays were about to hit the place, and noting the number of rigs heading South, we figured that as we had plenty of time, we would go away from all of that. Besides, we hadn't seen any Boab tree's yet, and we knew there was little hope of seeing one heading South. So off we we went, back to Halls Creek again for some fuel, and to look for an auto electrician as our van brake lights were on permanently. Everything else worked okay and nothing we did fixed the problem. Thankfully everything else works just fine.
After getting fuel we made our way to the local Toyota dealer come service station come tyre repair to ask about an auto electrician. The lady behind the counter was not interested and just said "no" when I asked her if they did auto electrics. The same answer came for my next question of "is there anybody in town who does auto electrical work?'. So, I consulted Mr Google and found one just around the corner.
After a bit of fault finding it seemed that the issue was with wires in the van plug, some of which had rubbed together and stripped, so that was replaced and all seemed and worked well. We were happy campers again and on our way to fixing our fridge.
We made it to the rest area at the Ord River, some 250 km's or so from Kununurra. We managed to snag a nice little spot where nobody else would be able to get in on top of us and settled in with the temperature around 30 degrees.
Our Track can be found here.
02 July 2019
Waking to a nice morning after a pleasant night, we were on the road early, making our way to Kununurra through the stunning scenery of the Kimberley, and noting the many spots for a photo that we will stop at on the way back.
Arriving in town around 1030am we called our contact at Flick Refrigeration and made arrangements for them to meet us at a local park. Tyran turned up after a short while and confirmed that the fridge control circuit board needed the last rights, and after a check of the compressor and the rest of the fridge, replaced the dying part. We also wanted a new freezer door because the bums of the Tanami had cracked the plastic around the hinge, and we also arranged for him to fit a fan on top of the compressor to help draw the hot air out of the fridge cavity, so that meant going back to their home workshop, just out of town.
And to top it off, the van brake lights problem has returned. Pulling the plug in the tub out for a look revealed some sparking in the wires and so there must be more wiring that is exposed, but it is in between the inner and outer skin of the tub, and I we don't have any wiring loom. So now we need another auto electrician, but that will have to be in Kununurra when we get back in there as the day is marching on.
So with all of the replacements done, the bill paid and the sun dropping in the sky, we headed for a free camp near Lake Argyle called Dead Horse Springs. Of course we could have tried a caravan park, but who wants to be a sardine again? Once again, we were driving through some of the most scenic, eye watering beautiful scenery around. Pulling into the rest area late and where there were seven others already set up, we found a spot and began to settle in. Going for a walk to explore for some potential photographs meant that a better spot, which we had briefly looked at when we drove in, and with better phone reception was found, so a brief pack up was done before we moved a total of about 250m.
Too much driving, too many decisions and too much of everything over the past couple of days meant that we were pretty knackered and so settled in for a good nights sleep around 7.30pm! Windows, roof and door open to let the heat out and the cool breeze in aided by the fan was bliss and we slept a peaceful night, and, the fridge worked the best it has ever worked, especially in the heat.
Our track can be found here.
03 July 2019
Our camp spot was a great one and we awoke early. Of course photographs came to mind with the early light and so out came the camera, the first time in a few days mind you, to try and capture some of the surrounding beauty.
The sun had been up for a while, but not on this rockface. I just loved the little tree in it's own alcove.
Looking back towards the road from our campsite.
So with some photo's taken it was time to get some other tasks done that hadn't been touched due to our rushed trip. Later on, after some of the campers had left, some others came in, and a familiar sound was in the air, prompting us to get the flying camera out, despite the wind gusts, to get some shots and some video of the area.
Looking toward Lake Argyle.
Looking back from where we had come.
Our campsite at Dead Horse Springs. We are in the middle. And yes, the water is really that colour.
After flying through the gap and looking South along the shore.
Our track can be found here.
05 July 2019
Because we still have a problem with the brake lights on the van we rang an auto electrics place in Kununurra and booked in to have the issue looked at on Friday, so, decided to take a day off at Dead Horse Springs. Most of last nights campers left and at one stage there was us and a caravan that had been left for the day while the owners explored. Of course the place filled up again and by the morning there were twenty of us there.
The next day, Thursday, saw us leave camp and head back to Kununurra so get fuel, to do some food shopping and to then get into our site at the Ivanhoe Caravan Park for the night, ready for an 8am appointment at the auto electrical place the next day.
While we were parked in town two vehicles (one with a boat and the other a camper) came and parked next to us, nothing unusual there, except it was Penny Wells and the Top of Down Under crew. They said hello and wandered off, Penny in a dress for once. It was tempting to ask for a selfie, but I am sure they get that all the time, so I didn't bother. Of course the obligatory photo of the vehicles together had to be taken.
Getting into the caravan park was an interesting experience as was just being another $40 a night sardine! Of course there was not enough room to stay connected and so we had to go through the whole routine. Once set up Joanne noticed that the information said vehicles could be washed, so we did. Roof, walls, windows, underneath on the 5er and of course the ute as well, leaving plenty of that Tanami Desert on the ground. So, $40 for the night became $20 because we saved $20 that we would have spent at the carwash. Bargain!
Apart from being a sardine, the place was quite nice, quiet (except for planes taking off early to take tourists out to Lake Argyle), and plenty of shade. The amenities were pretty good, and our neighbours friendly.
So after a peaceful night we packed and connected up entertaining the neighbours for a bit and then made our way just a few streets away to the auto electricians. "It will be sometime this morning" the bloke said as we booked in, and so spent some time parked up in the yard entertaining ourselves in our own home.
Our track can be found here.
08 July 2019
After what seemed like an eternity out in the yard we were ushered into the service bay and they auto electrician got to work. We sat in the beautifully cool shop with enough fans going to make a helicopter pilot feel right at home. A few hours later our man announced that he had located the fault and fixed the fault, and it wasn't what we thought it was. Turns out he did all the fault finding and following wires etc only to come up with nothing, so plugged the ute into a computer and saw that it said there was a tail light bulb blown! Bulb replaced and problem fixed.
We left town happy and made our way to the Cockburn Rest Area on the T-junction of the road South, the road to Kununurra and the road to Wyndham, and arriving before the hoards, managed to get a good spot down the back where we remained for two nights. Both nights were busy and the second was totally packed with rigs of all types, but more backpacker vans, cars and tents than anything, one even had pop up shower tent and 12v shower like we have in our campertrailer.
The stop allowed us to take a break, spread the fuel consumption out a bit and to get some photography done, and by the time we left to go up to Wyndham for a look the weather was in the low 30's.
Boab's and the view out the back of the rest area.
Boab's toward sunset.
Some of the scenery along the road to Wyndham.
Nothing standing except the Boab's after the fire.
Taking the drive up to Wyndham was nice and we planned some boab photo shoots for the way back. Pulling into town we drove around for a look at the aboriginal nursing home that we worked at in our first year of being on the road before heading up to the Port and then back into town again. Picking up the cheapest fuel for some time at $1.529 we filled a jerry can of insurance and then the tank.
More Boab's along the side of the Wyndham Road.
Out of town and heading South again we stopped for some boab shots before eventually taking a dirt track for about a kilometre down to a waterhole where we ended up camping for the night. Some more photography and drone flights and some croc sightings were the order of the afternoon. The area we were camped in was just a turnaround, but we figured that not too many people would come down there, and if they did, bad luck, we were there first.
The waterhole and our camp (in the middle).
Boab's at sunset along the track near our camp.
Our track can be found here.
So after a peaceful night by the waterhole and listening to either cattle or crocs in the water, we packed up and headed out this morning, headed for the Gibb River Road, and as far as the sealed bit goes this time. It's strange, but we don't really have any burning desire to do the whole of the Gibb River Road, but probably will at some stage.
Heading down the Gibb, we were passing through and viewing some magnificent country starting with the Cockburn Range (as featured in the movie Australia). The bitumen in fairly good condition, but care needed at the whoops as we passed through the dry creek crossings.
The magnificent Cockburn Range.
With quite a few photographic locations spotted, and some used, we passed the turn off to the Emma Gorge Resort, helicopter flights and whatever else to eventually turnaround at the El-Questro road. Quite a number of others were airing up or down, and getting ready to either head towards Derby, or back towards Kununurra.
Not far past the Emma Gorge turnoff.
On the way back we stopped at one of the largest boab tree's we have seen and managed some aerial and ground based photo's, and video.
The large Boab.
Then, it was back through the magnificent countryside to eventually end up in a gravel pit with million dollar views, just 5 kilometres short of the Cockburn sardine can rest area.
Our track can be found here.
09 July 2019
Surrounded by beautiful rock ranges we spent a peaceful night in our gravel pit camp, one we will surely come back to the next time we are through this area. Packing up we stopped at the Cockburn Rest Area to use the dump point and to count the campers, of which there were many.
Moving on and South again we hadn't gone far before we turned around and stopped to put the drone up to capture the magnificent rocky ranges.
Looking Southwards and the range not far from the Wuggunbun Community.
With the drone back on the ground we were back on the road again, but not for long as after passing the huge sandalwood plantation on our left, we arrived at the Dunham Rest Area where, after 41 km's from when we started, we found a nice spot and stopped for an early days travel as many were still packing up to get going.
Our track can be found here.
10 July 2019
Having driven the huge distance of 41 kilometres yesterday we decided that we were in need of a rest day today. So as most of those in camp packed up to hit the road we settled in for another day in camp.
Drone photography and video was the name of the game this morning after completing a hardware update courtesy of having phone signal here. Of course the wind saw the drone launch and immediately came up to help reduce the flight time, but not before I got some shots and a video, including flying under the bridge.
Our camp spot next to the rapidly drying up Dunham River.
Interestingly, while looking out over the land from 400 feet, I could see another road, and it turns out, after some Google Earth flight, that it was the original road, a run down bridge further down the river being the old crossing. I was going to fly the drone down there but whistling kites taking an interest in this new bird in their patch, and a strong wind to fly against coming back changed my mind, so we might have to drive in from the other end if we can when we leave here.
A past camp spot among the Boab's and what's left of the river.
The scene of what was a campsite for us once, now some structure, a toilet and fire pit.
Flying over to a spot where we once camped with friends Kim and Carolyn, revealed someone else had made it a semi permanent camp. The track in now gated and rather large Brahman cattle roaming around. The last time we were here we had to move back to the rest area after the long dry grass that surrounded us was lit and heading our way, no such antics or worries this time.
Our track can be found here.
14 July 2019
It's been a few days since we updated and so, with a weekend off from travel it's about time to do so.
Leaving the Dunham River Rest Area almost before anyone else, including the backpackers that had set up camp quite close to us, mainly because we had a table with a roof over it. They had a fire and unlike the female backpackers that were in camp when we got there, these girls didn't run around in their bikini's.
We hit the road and it wasn't long before we were stopping for some aerial photo's of the surrounding countryside, which interestingly we took a photo of the same range as the sun started to light it up when we cycled through here back in 2003. We had also planned on taking the old road towards the old bridge and then sending the drone the rest of the way if we couldn't get through, but the track was not one we wanted to take, and the distance too much of a ask for the drone, so we will have to take the Northern track the next time we come through here.
Looking South along the range near Dunham River
Looking back the way we came from.
Passing through the ranges and beautiful countryside there were photographs to be taken at every turn, but often nowhere to pull over. We did however stop near Pompey's Pillar and sent the drone out for a look. It didn't look that far but...it was almost 2 kilometres of flight away.
Close up of Pompey's Pillar
The view of Pompey's from the highway.
Coming through the O'Donnell Range the views were magnificent. We stopped at the rest area near the turnoff to the Argyle Mine to get some ground and aerial shots of a large boab that was totally surrounded by it's prodigy, and looking like it was in jail.
The Boab's
The range behind the boab's.
About 7 kilometres from Warmun (Turkey Creek), we came to an area that had been burnt out but had nice looking rocks and white trees all contrasting nicely and which we had seen on our way North. We also found a turn around area and somewhere to camp. The plan was to get photo's and if we felt okay with the place to stay overnight, which we eventually did.
A scene near our camp.
Another scene near our camp.
Boabs' at Sunset
Our track can be found here.
Waking after a peaceful night the sunrise was again something to get shots of along with boab's. Photo's and breakfast over we made our way into and through Warmun, now with new houses for the locals courtesy of a cyclone a few years ago. The caravan park, service station come store was busy with travellers as we passed.
Sunrise.
First light across the land.
Not long after leaving Warmun we spied some nice white trees along a dry creekbed, so turned around and had a photo shoot.
White tree creek.
Moving on we stopped for a look at the large open boab tree at March Fly Creek, that we had first seen when cycling through in 2003. We stopped for a look at the Mulka and Spring Creek Rest Area's before arriving at the Ord River Rest Area. Taking up the same spot we had last time we settled in for a few days.
Responding to a knock on the door revealed Michael Saunders and his little dog Ed. Michael has a 5th wheeler and is member of a 5th wheeler facebook page we are also members of, and who we had sort of been communicating with. We had a brief chat and then later on, as many others came in to take up a spot, we went up to where Michael and his wife Di were camped and enjoyed a cuppa and a longer chat, which was very pleasant.
Our track can be found here.
Saturday was another day off with a catch up on photo processing, odd jobs and generally relaxing, and today, Sunday is going to be about the same, though we have some TV to watch as well.
Not sure what this tree is, but there are plenty of them around,
17 July 2019
Sunday was indeed another day off and as we went about our business the place emptied out a little and then refilled with the afternoon tide of travellers.
The next morning we were up early and off to Halls Creek, the last time on this trip. With just 100km's or so the trip was fairly quick and easy and as we had started early, before anyone else had left, we were in town just after 8am and easily able to get to the dump point and water tap area not long after the cage it sits in was unlocked. Sometimes the line up here is a problem and on top of that, other people just park in front because it is a good spot near the service station.
We started to fill our rather dry water tanks, but the water pressure is very slow, and the tap has to be held down, so filling is not that easy. Water filled up we then topped up with fuel at $1.699, including a spare jerry can of insurance because it is the cheapest fuel around these parts, did some food shopping, caught up on things Internet and headed out of town, heading for a spot we had seen on our way up.
Turing into a driveway about 60 km's out of Halls Creek and about 40 km's from Mary Pool, we found a dry dam with some old abandoned cars and a turning circle just ideal for a camp spot. Picking our spot and levelling off, we settled in for the rest of the day.
Our track can be found here.
The wind was up and we had a side/tail wind as we made our way the next morning, grateful we were not heading North and into it. Around 40 km's later we pulled into the very popular Mary Pool Rest Area where we had intended to camp again. The wind was whipping up huge clouds of dust from the dirt roadway and camping area, so much so it was almost covering our wheel tracks as we went! Nope, nowhere to camp without sitting in s dust storm all day so we left those brave souls there to it and hit the highway again, looking for a spot as we went. Well, there was the usual truck parking bays and even a station stay and even what looked like an old gravel pit, but none were any good.
We eventually turned up at the Ngumpan Cliff Rest Area and pulled in. Out of the three areas there the main attraction is the only bitumen one, and so it is very popular and crowded. The area out the back is large, flat and seemed okay but we chose the first area as you come in which is about 200m from the main, and where we still had a view. We set up camp and then spent the rest of the day watching the comings and goings as people tried to get the best spot, crowding in on each other and turning the experience into a sardine can. Our little area had also filled up by sunset, but nowhere near that of the other two.
Our track can be found here.
Campers continued to come in even after sunset, reversing into spots between other vans, backpackers in cars and vans parked up almost in with others, cars and tents were lined up along the road and all because there are tables undercover, toilets not far away and it is the main parking area. Well, they can have it.
A sunset photography trip revealed some nice views and of course the camera got a work out while the drone remained grounded in the exceptionally strong wind.
The moon rises above the Belt of Venus as the sun sets.
An early morning photographic trip revealed even more had come in overnight and even the sardines were starting to complain. More photos, this time along the rim and then down in the gully where the wind was not so bad, and the sound of the sardines stirring was not so evident.
First light over the white trees' of the Ngumpan Cliffs'
By 9.30am there was just a few of us left and the great migration had headed out. The wind was still up and it was going to be another windy day. We were enjoying a day off and watching the next migration of travellers come in in what was bound to be another sardine can repeat performance, and what a performance it turned out to be.
Around 8pm two vehicles came in in a hurry. Obviously not too worried about where they were going to park and hell bent on just getting a spot. One nosed right up to us with their vehicles bumper bar merely a two metres from ours, and the other came in to top and tail with them, except his van was level with our ute!
18 July 2019
We packed up early and the look of horror on the woman in the van in front of us was well worth annoyance of their being there. Just as we started up and began to reverse a man from one of the vans came over and apologised for boxing us in. I replied that I thought he was just scared of the dark before reversing enough to get by and turning to get out and over to the dump point. They occupants of the two vans just standing there looking at us.
Down the cutting and past some wonderful scenery we went, red dirt of the cliffs and cutting on one side and grey, limestone rock from a Devonian Reef on the other. We both considered stopping for a better look, and maybe put the drone up, but in the end decided that it might be a "next time" event.
Before long we were passing over the single lane bridges and pulling into Fitzroy Crossing while the UHF crackled with the helicopter pilot and ground crew discussing things for their muster. First stop was the supermarket then for fuel, though there was a slight problem there, the power had gone out and the pumps were not working. So, taking advantage of time, we went to the caravan park and for the princely sum of $5, topped up our water tanks before going back to get in the line for fuel. Seems the power outage from the towns generators was planned by the power company but they forgot to tell anyone! Fuel topped up it was time for one last stop at the information centre and to head out of town to our planned campsite.
Passing the turnoff to Winjana Gorge we stopped some 10 km's later in the Boab Gravel Pit that Joanne had decided we were going to. Pulling in we had the place to ourselves and so set up camp and started to find good views of the boabs, especially for sunset.
This big boab sits alongside the now empty dam.
The evening draws near across boabs near our camp.
The sun is almost gone.
Two camper trailers came in and set up a respectable distance from us and the night passed peacefully.
Our track can be found here.
19 July 2019
Packing up and heading off before the others we easily covered the 10 km's back to the Winjana Gorge turnoff, and, having already aired down, didn't have to stop to do so. The road at the start was quite good, but the further we went to worse the corrugations got and the slower we went.
The start of the road to Winjana Gorge
The road improved slightly once we got off the red sandy corrugations and got onto the limestone road, limestone from the countryside we were about to enter. Coming around a corner the view opened up to the same type of dark rocks of all shapes and sizes of those we saw after leaving the Ngumpan Rest Area, and boabs everywhere! We had entered an area where there is a huge Devonian Reef. Pulling over we spent quite some time looking around, taking photos and of course putting the drone up for a larger view.
The start of an interesting place.
An aerial view of what is thought was once a coral reef.
One of many.
So many nice scenes to view and photograph.
More rocks and even a small cave to go through in this scene just off the road.
Moving up the road a little we took a track off into the reef proper, stopping at a turn around to get some more photos and then reluctantly moving on to our camp, just a few kilometres away.
We arrived at the RAAF Boab Quarry, so named because the limestone was quarried here to make the RAAF Base, and because it is full of boabs'. With so many nice views we drove around and around looking at potential campsites before settling on a concrete slab not too far in.
The view of the quarry from above.
Not long after we had set up a family in a caravan came and parked near us, disconnected their van and disappeared, coming back later in the day after having been up to tunnel creek for a look. Turns out they have four months off to tour and they are going to cram in visiting as much of the country as they can in that time.
Photo's were again the order of the afternoon and early evening as was watching the other caravans and 4wd's coming in, before we settled in for a quiet night.
Last light on some of the outcrops at the rear of our camp.
Our track can be found here.
20 July 2019
We awoke early on the 50th Anniversary of Armstrong walking on the moon, and it was time to get some first light photos and for Joanne to head off exploring. The family packed up and headed out as did some others, but not us. We are taking another day off.
First light over some of the rock, and a tired boab.
With the clear skies of the outback so good for astrophotography tonight was a good time to grab a shot or two of the milky way before the moon got up and spoilt it all. Joanne came out and stood admiring the night sky as the camera got a work out.
The Milky Way over the boab just a few metres away from our camp.
21 July 2019
It was hard to leave the peace and tranquility of the RAAF Boab Quarry, but we had to or forfeit our booking at Winjana Gorge. The road condition got worse and worse the further we went but the scenery just got better and better. Lots of boabs and pleasant vista's to be seen. We stopped for photos of different or large boabs as we made our way along, the biggest grand daddy of them all sprouting out from the ground in all directions.
Just another boab, but a very big one!
Before long we crossed a grid and came out into open ground, the road just as bad and to top it all off, an off road tourist bus on a mission sitting right on our tail, monstering the mirror view and just itching for an overtaking spot, then in a cloud of dust and rocks, they were gone, hell bent on getting their passengers to all the sights and back to town before dark.
Crossing quite a few deep, dry creeks, passing Fairfield Station and passing along the boundary of a National PArk home to another Devonian Reef from just a few years back.
Typical scenery pn the road to Tunnel Creek.
Pulling into the carpark we managed to find a long park not far from that tourist bus. We got ready and walked the short distance to the start of the tunnel. Large boulders and rocks guard the entrance, some looking like marble and just as smooth which made life moving over them a little interesting, but one e were inside, the cool of the underground came to meet us. Not for inside and basking in the semi light was the first fresh water croc. We kept an eye on each other as we did the photo thing and he remained there the whole time.
The tourists from the bus all came out of the dark, their little headlamps and torches like a parade of glow worms. One of the teenagers decided to touch the croc, and even got to without getting bitten, or the croc even moving. Joanne decided to get a little closer and get her own photos of the animal, and was about a metre away at one stage.
Joanne inside the entrance, the croc just visible over the top of the large rock in front of her.
Looking back toward the entrance.
The view as you walk deeper and deeper underground.
The ground remained dry all the way in and through to the other side, but of course that could and would change depending on the season.
So visit to Tunnel Creek over it was time to continue on. Red dirt, spinifex bushland on the right and the grey limestone of the reef on the left went for some time until we came to what looked like a plateau. Not far from that were the ruins of an old Post which was kept busy by an aboriginal raider who was intent on keeping his land to himself and his people back in the 1800's, and a little way on was the turn off into Winjana Gorge and the campground.
We had a booking for two days and had booked into the generator part of the campground because the sites are bigger and there are less people. Well, the sites are where you decided to park and there is plenty of room.
Our track can be found here.
We set up and settled in not far from the walk into the gorge and close enough to the toilets, showers and a fresh water tap to make life easy. Just before sunset it was time to wander down to the gorge to find some compositions and to see what all the fuss was about. The short 10 minute walk down to the gorge was pleasant as was passing through the large crack in the rock where the air was cool and pleasant before arriving at the dry riverbed.
Walking along the track for a few hundred metres or so brought us to a large waterhole and the inhabitants, a large number of fresh water crocodiles. A little further on was a large rock in the middle of the riverbed and the perfect place for some sunset photos. Of course, as sunset neared more and more people came down and sat in the sand. Kids running around, adults drinking wine and enjoying the ambiance, and all waiting for not just sunset, but the bats!
Apparently the very large bats that inhabit the cliff faces come out around sunset and of course drop to the river for a drink, and the crocs are waiting for them as their evening meal.
The large waterhole, crocs and people already lining up on the bank.
Last light on the rock face near the entrance to the gorge.
A closer view of last light, the rock and the crocs in the water.
Back at camp it was time for a shower, a meal and with generators off at 8pm, a quiet evening.
22 July 2019
5.15am and the alarm was going off. Time to get up and with the help of a headlamp, to make the journey back down into the gorge and to the sunset shot for hopefully, the belt of venus and some early light on the rock. With nobody down there I had the whole place to myself, the rock wallaby's moving around, the crocs and the birdlife starting to stir.
A cold wind was blowing up the river and off the water making me wish I had taken a jacket, but...then as the light started to come other people eventually arrived to watch the sun come up behind the towering cliffs behind us, and to see what the crocs were going to be doing.
The reason for getting up was a bit of a fizzer, but I got some shots anyway, and learn 't a few more things. Then, as more and more people came down it was time to head back to camp for a cup of hot tea, and breakfast.
First light and the belt of venus.
The leaning rock of Winjana Gorge, and not far from our campsite.
Back at camp it was time for a nice cooked breakfast, processing photos, a few other odd jobs and a pleasant relaxing day.
23 July 2019
Leaving the camp at Winjana Gorge this morning we were on the road fairly early and initially working on just a short 20 kilometre trip to the junction where the road meets the Gibb River Road and where there is a camp at the Lennard River. On arrival we found the river was mostly dry except for a waterhole under the bridge. Finding a nice spot we leveled off in anticipation of camping, but went off exploring first.
A walk up the riverbed and a drone flight along it was as far as we got before deciding to continue our way along the Gibb River Road towards Derby instead. Another 20 km's to a 20 km stretch of bitumen and then another 20 km's of dirt was all that was between us and the bitumen proper. We covered the distances easily, admiring and stopping for photo's of boab trees along the way, and then, after rejecting a campsite not far out of Derby, ended up at the Savannah Holiday Retreat.
The retreat is basically someone's block and accommodation where they allow people to camp, provide toilets, showers and water and a great happy hour at 4.30pm for $20 a night. They also have cabins available. So, we spent the evening chatting with fellow campers before settling in for a quiet night.
Our track can be found here.
24 July 2019
We were the second camper to leave this morning and with only 20 km's into Derby we were there nice and early. Food shopping and fuel were the main reasons for being there this morning. Tasks done we went down to the Port for a look before heading through town to the large boab that we visited the last time we were up here to have lunch.
With nothing else to do in town we made our way out, past the Gibb River Road turnoff and then on to find our old campsite along a fire break opposite the turn off to the Curtin Airforce Base, the same base that the limestone from the RAAF Boab Quarry went to. Finding our spot drove in, took a left turn then reversed along the fenceline and set up camp. Sure beats the ridiculous price in a caravan park, and it is quieter.
Our track can be found here.
25 July 2019
Once again our fenceline camp was a good one, and this morning we left having decided to go and find a camp along the Fitzroy River, and to find Helmut's Shack in the Fitzroy River at the base of King Sound.
The road down from Derby was fairly quiet and arriving at the intersection with the highway we could see roadwork's in full swing. Thankfully we were going the other way. A few kilometres later we were passing Willare Roadhouse and over the Fitzroy River where we camped once when we cycled through this area.
The road here continues over ground that has been raised well above the surrounding flood plain. We eventually pulled into a dirt road and stopped to air down and entered a gate for the 10 kilometres or so to the river and our intended camp spot.
The road was atrocious and any speed was out of the question. Swerving all over the road like a drunken driver we were picking the best of the corrugations (if there ever is such a thing), and trying to keep the rig in one piece, and our fillings in place. We were actually on the old highway and where it used to go to the old Langley (Lanji Lanji) Crossing.
Opening yet another gate we could see quite a few caravans and other rigs over where the original crossing would be, so took the track away from them and headed North along a narrow sandy track. Arriving at a nice spot near an old telegraph pole and where the water right across the river had started we decided that this would do us for a few days and set up camp right on the riverbank.
Our campsite.
The view out of the front door.
Our track can be found here.
Once we had set up we unhitched and followed the narrow, and even narrower sand track North for 2 kilometres to where we found the remains of Helmut Schmidt's old shack.
The remains of Helmut's shack in the middle of the river.
Helmut needed the second story to escape from the water each time the river flooded.
Kitchen and Dining Room with a view.
Even a tiled (sort of) bathroom.
How many beer cans does it take to make a brick? Three cans or stubbies apparently.
The track to and from Helmut's Shack is here.
So after our little excursion we returned to camp to spend the afternoon watching the birdlife, fish (mudskippers) and croc's on the river.
27 July 2019
After two great days and nights alongside the river we decided to move on this morning. Negotiating the narrow winding sandy track out and then the corrugations once more. Stopping at the highway to air up we chatted with a couple who came in and were going to air down to go in.
The highway was fairly benign after the river road, and it wasn't long before we were at the Nillibubica Rest Area, where, when we cycled through here, we once fought a car and caravan for a shady spot, and won.
Settled in for the day as the rigs kept coming, and for some reason they were mostly attracted to our corner! By the time we went to bed we were hemmed in on three sides and being along the fence had no way of getting out without knocking on someone's door. We even had a cyclist from Spain in a tent on the back bumper.
Our track can be found here.
28 July 2019
We were up reasonably early but not as early as the caravan almost alongside us, so at least we now had a way out. Everywhere was covered with a very heavy dew and as we were on our way We were heading for the roadhouse at Roebuck where we had arranged to meet Carmen, a lady who used to work for me at Compass Group we passed through fog, so the warm humid night and dew on the rig was because of that.
Being only 70km's from the roadhouse and early we had the road and the fog to ourselves. Arriving with plenty of time we fuelled up and then parked up and headed inside. The roadhouse was buzzing and so we took up a table in the bar/restaurant and ordered cooked breakfast, courtesy of Joanne treating herself after a recent birthday. Also in there was Andrew Coustley who I had served on HMAS Swan with. We had a brief catch up and then he was off.
Carmen turned up a little later and the three of us spent about three and a half hours chatting, before it was time for us to head off, eventually pulling into the Goldwire Rest Area where we managed to snag a good spot, and even a concrete slab to park on. As usual the place filled up and by morning there were two dozen of us in there.
Our track can be found here.
29 July 2019
Second to leave this morning we dropped our rubbish in the bins at the entrance and started down the highway, looking at various things and reminiscing from our time cycling through here.
We passed Sandfire Roadhouse and eventually turned into the 80 mile beach road and took the nine kilometres in. We arrived and the place was buzzing like a bee hive. The caravan park was chockers and because they don't take bookings, it is a free for all. Joanne went inside and got us an unpowered site that backs right up to the sand dune and onto the beach. So after almost getting level we connected to the water and settled in. This place has been on Joanne's bucket list and so we are here for that reason. At $35 a night unpowered and $45 a night powered with a cafe that is very busy, this place is a license to print money.
The last of the days sun over the ocean.
Tidal patterns and footprints at sunset.
Squiggles in the sand as the belt of venus rises opposite to the sunset.
Our track can be found here.
30 July 2019
Our day off at 80 mile beach started early around 4am with a walk up to the lookout to see if the milky way could be seen over the ocean, but unfortunately the trip was in vain and should have been at least an hour earlier. But later on a walk back and along the beach for first light photos was successful.
First light from the dune lookout.
Shells along the beach at sunrise.
Being on the beach early before the walkers, joggers, fishermen and idiots in 4wd's was good, except getting shots of the shells was a problem because of the vehicle tracks everywhere, especially through the belt of shells that the beach is known for.
The rest of the day passed with very little excitement, the tide washing in and out not only in the ocean, but also in the park. We lost some neighbours and gained different ones. The park has 250 sites and Joanne told me that she heard the powered section was full, and by the looks of it, the unpowered was not far off it either. 250 sites at a minimum of $35 a night is a lot of doe ray me.
31 July 2019
The end of another month and the end of our stay at 80 mile beach. We packed up and headed out along with a few others and hit the highway. Lots of traffic going in both directions along what is quite a boring piece of road. A line of vans in front at times meant that we had to crawl along at 80km/h or overtake and get a fresh uninterrupted view, so that's what we did.
After about 100km's we pulled in to Pardoo Roadhouse to get fuel and the crazy drivers didn't end there. They flew in to get to a pump like they were racing us all to get the last 5 litres of fuel in the country. Then, after we had filled up Joanne drove us forward and parked up to allow someone to get in for their fuel, we get boxed in by to numb nuts in 4wd's. People!
Back on the highway we left the Kimberley behind and entered the Pilbara. More vans to overtake to make the driving easier as the low iron ore hills of the Pilbara began to come up, and before long we were pulling into the newly revamped, gravel at De-Grey River.
With next to no phone signal we found a nice spot and set up camp as the wind blew like crazy, and many others started to come in.
This white tree was not far from our camp and made for a great subject as the Belt of Venus rose each evening.
The cattle also came through each evening.
Todays track can be found here.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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